When you hear the word "sewing", what do you think of? Simple, repetitive manual labor? Your closet? Your grandmother?
Sewing is often perceived as a traditional, domestic skill that is practiced by
women in the home. Consequently, it has been subject to misogynistic stereotypes.
Some misogynistic perceptions associated with sewing include:
- Sewing as "women's work": There is a deeply ingrained perception that sewing
is inherently a feminine activity, tied to traditional gender roles and domestic
duties historically assigned to women.
- Lack of value or importance: Sewing and other textile crafts have often been
dismissed as trivial or unimportant, reflecting a broader devaluation of traditionally
female-dominated activities and skills.
- Lack of complexity or skill: There is a misconception that sewing is a simple,
mindless task that requires little skill or intelligence, undermining the expertise
and artistry involved in many sewing and textile techniques.
- Domestic confinement: Sewing has been viewed as an activity that confines women to
the domestic sphere, reinforcing patriarchal notions of a woman's "proper place" being
in the home.
- Lack of economic value: The products of sewing, especially those made for personal or
household use, have often been undervalued or seen as having little economic worth,
contributing to the perception of sewing as a non-productive or non-profitable pursuit. This is
exacerbated by modern "fast fashion".
However, sewing and textile engineering has revolutionized human history and is not only essential,
but also highly technical.
Engineering applications include:
- Materials science and engineering: Understanding the properties, behavior, and
performance of different materials is crucial. This involves
principles of polymer science, materials chemistry, and material testing.
- Mechanical engineering: Sewing machines and textile machinery involve principles
of mechanical design, kinematics, dynamics, and vibration analysis. The interaction
between needle, thread, and fabric is a complex mechanical process.
- Structural engineering: The construction of textile products, such as clothing
or technical textiles, involves principles of structural design, stress analysis,
and load distribution to ensure durability and performance.
- Fluid mechanics: Principles of fluid dynamics and aerodynamics are applied in
the design of textile machinery, such as air-jet looms and air-laid nonwoven production processes.
- Tribology: The study of friction, wear, and lubrication is crucial in understanding
the interaction between sewing needles, threads, and fabrics, as well as the performance
of textile machinery components.
- Control systems: Modern sewing and textile machinery incorporates advanced control
systems, including programmable logic controllers (PLCs), computer numerical control
(CNC), and robotics, which require principles of control theory and systems engineering.
- Computer-aided design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM): These tools are widely used in pattern
design, grading, marker making, and automated cutting processes, involving principles of
computer science, geometric modeling, and optimization algorithms.
- Textile testing and quality control: Principles of metrology, nondestructive testing, and
statistical process control are applied to ensure the quality and performance of textile
products and processes.
- Ergonomics and human factors: The design of sewing workstations, machinery interfaces,
and textile production environments involves principles of ergonomics, anthropometrics,
and human-machine interaction to ensure operator safety and productivity.
-
Bioengineering applications: Textiles are highly flexible and conform to our bodies.
Textile science is used in varied applications from skin grafting and surgical meshes to
nano-scale protein engineering of fibrous polymers.
Textiles and sewing have also played a pivotal role in political movements and ideological
debates throughout history, often serving as symbols of power, resistance, and economic
systems.
Prominent examples include:
- Marxist theory: In Das Kapital, Marx used the textile industry, particularly the cotton
trade and factories in England, as a prime illustration of the exploitation of workers under
capitalism. He analyzed in detail the harsh working conditions, long hours, and meager wages
endured by textile workers, arguing that these conditions were a direct result of the capitalist
system's drive for profit maximization at the expense of labor.
Marx's vivid descriptions of the "dark satanic mills" and the suffering of women and
children employed in textile factories served as a powerful indictment of the industrial
capitalist model. He portrayed the textile industry as a microcosm of the broader class
struggle between the bourgeoisie and proletariat.
- The Indian Independence movement
Mahatma Gandhi's promotion of Khadi (hand-spun and hand-woven cloth) became a symbol of
self-reliance and a rejection of British-imposed textile imports. The act of spinning one's
own cloth with colorful Indian patterns was a form of peaceful cultural resistance
against colonial rule and economic subjugation.
- American Suffrage movement: Embroidered banners were a common sight at the early
20th century Women's Suffrage movement. The colors, patterns, and imagery used can
all carry specific meanings. Think of a protest group using a certain colored bandana
or piece of clothing to signify their affiliation.
- Recent times: the global textile and apparel industry has been a focal
point for debates around fair labor practices, worker rights, and environmental
sustainability. Movements advocating for ethical and eco-friendly textiles have
emerged as a response to concerns over exploitative labor conditions, pollution,
and the industry's carbon footprint.
Ultimately, there is no reason sewing should be seen as lesser than its traditionally
masculine analogue disciplines such as woodworking or metalworking, which I think is a bias
that is underacknowledged.
If you're interested, some good books on this topic include:
- The Fabric of Civilization by Virginia Postrel
- The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History by Kassia St. Clair
- Worn: A People's History of Clothing by Sofi Thanhauser.
Personal connection
When she was younger, my grandmother worked as a seamstress earning very low wages in Korea.
While Korea is now an economic powerhouse due to influence from the US and adoption of capitalism,
in the not so distant past, it was wrought with poverty and greater class inequality as well
as traditional patriarchic beliefs. My grandmother stopped going to school around her 4th grade.
When I was younger, my grandmother made sure I knew how to sew. She knew it as one of
the only ways women could make income, and did not have much faith in my education. As I grew
up and my mother and aunt began to become more successful in their careers, my grandmother
realized the potential of education. She now encourages me to study and tells me not to waste
my time sewing.
While a sewing/fashion career isn't really attractive to me, I think it is such a valuable
skill and I enjoy it for its utilitarian purposes as well as its potential for experimental
creative expression.